If you're here for the best yosemite backpacking permits, the short answer is: enter the lottery by late March for a summer trip, or check for walk-up permits 24 hours before your planned departure. The long answer involves understanding which trailheads are most competitive, what the odds actually look like, and how the wilderness office processes applications. That's what this guide covers.
What Hiking Here Actually Means
Yosemite's nearly 1,200 square miles span elevations from 2,000 feet to 13,000 feet. The hiking experience shifts dramatically between Yosemite Valley at 4,000 feet, the high country above 9,000 feet along Tioga Road, and the western approaches through giant sequoia groves. Most visitors underestimate the elevation's effect on pace - at 8,000 feet, expect to move 30-40% slower than you would at sea level, especially with a loaded pack.
The defining reality of hiking in yosemite national park is the permit system. Nearly every overnight trail in the Yosemite Wilderness requires a wilderness permit, and several of the most popular trailheads operate on a lottery system from November through October. The park accepts 60% of permits through advance reservations and holds 40% for walk-ups issued one day before departure. Most first-time permit applicants overestimate their chances at popular trailheads like Happy Isles to Little Yosemite Valley - that particular route sees about 85% of applicants denied during peak season.
Half Dome via the John Muir Trail: The One You Need to Plan For
Distance: 14-16 miles round trip (depending on where you camp) Elevation Gain: 4,800 feet Trailhead & Parking: Happy Isles trailhead in Yosemite Valley. The parking lot fills by 7 AM June through September. If it's full, park at Curry Village or use the shuttle - the shuttle runs every 10-15 minutes from the main parking areas. Cell service drops out at the trailhead. The Trail: The first 2 miles follow the paved Mist Trail past Vernal Fall and Nevada Fall. This section sees heavy day-hiker traffic. At the top of Nevada Fall (6,000 feet elevation), the John Muir Trail splits off to the right. From there, you'll climb switchbacks through forest to Little Yosemite Valley, where most backpackers camp. The Half Dome subdome cables start at the backpackers camp junction - about 2 miles and 1,600 feet of gain from camp. The cables section is roughly 400 feet of 45-degree granite. The Moment: Standing on the Half Dome summit at sunset. The entire valley lies 4,000 feet below. Clouds Rest lines up to the northeast. On clear days you can see the Sierra Crest stretching 100 miles south. What Most Underestimate: The cables require a separate permit - a Half Dome permit - in addition to your wilderness permit. You cannot access the cables without it. Rangers check permits at the base of the subdome. Also, the cables are steep enough that many people freeze partway up and have to be helped down. Best Time: Late June through September, when the cables are up and snow is gone from the trail. Start before 6 AM from the trailhead if you want to avoid the worst crowds on the Mist Trail.
Short and Moderate Options for Day Hikes
Upper Yosemite Falls Trail
Distance: 7.6 miles round trip Elevation Gain: 2,700 feet Trailhead & Parking: Camp 4 parking area in Yosemite Valley. The lot fills by 8 AM. Overflow parking is at Yosemite Village - add 15 minutes of walking. No shuttle currently serves this lot directly. The Trail: The first mile is relentless switchbacks up the valley wall. No shade. By mile 2, you're above the falls and the grade moderates. The trail continues to Yosemite Point at the rim, where you look down the valley corridor. The surface is compacted granite sand - grippy enough but loose on the steep sections. The Moment: Reaching the top of Upper Yosemite Fall and feeling the mist carry 200 feet upward from the plunge pool below. The spray hits your face while you're standing 2,400 feet above the valley floor. What Most Underestimate: Water. This trail has no reliable water sources after the first 0.5 miles. Pack at least 2 liters in summer, and expect to use all of it. The trail is also fully exposed to afternoon sun - start before 8 AM. Best Time: May and June, when Yosemite Falls is at peak flow. By August the falls often slow to a trickle, and the trail becomes a dry, hot grind.Sentinel Dome and Taft Point Loop
Distance: 5.2 miles round trip Elevation Gain: 1,100 feet Trailhead & Parking: Glacier Point Road, 6 miles east of the junction with Highway 41. The Sentinel Dome/Taft Point trailhead lot holds maybe 25 cars. It fills by 9 AM in summer. Overflow parking at Glacier Point adds 1.5 miles of walking each way. The Trail: This loop combines two short trails into one efficient route. From the trailhead, head left toward Taft Point first - the trail is flat for the first mile, then drops slightly to the Point overlook. From Taft Point, follow the rim trail east to Sentinel Dome. The summit is a 0.3-mile scramble up granite slabs. The trail surface is mostly exposed granite with sections of decomposed granite. The Moment: Lying flat on Sentinel Dome's summit at sunset. You're above everything - El Capitan across the valley, Half Dome to the east, the Clark Range to the south. The dome is broad enough that you can find a spot completely out of the wind. What Most Underestimate: How exposed this loop is. There's zero cover from sun or wind. In July, the granite surface temperature can hit 140°F. In May, winds at the rim can gust to 40 mph. Best Time: Late afternoon for sunset light. Start around 3 PM. The walk back in dusk is flat and easy.Strenuous Hikes: When You Want the Full Experience
Clouds Rest
Distance: 14 miles round trip Elevation Gain: 3,100 feet Trailhead & Parking: Tenaya Lake trailhead off Tioga Road (Highway 120). The lot holds about 40 cars and fills by 8:30 AM July and August. Overflow is along the road shoulder - park well clear of traffic. Note that Tioga Road is closed from approximately November through late May or June. The Trail: The first 2 miles climb moderately through red fir forest on the Sunrise Lakes Trail. At the junction, turn left toward Clouds Rest. The next 3 miles traverse open granite slabs and exposed ridgeline. The final mile is a narrow spine of granite with 1,000-foot drops on both sides. The trail surface shifts from forest duff to bare granite to loose scree. Sections of the ridge are less than 10 feet wide. The Moment: Standing on the summit and seeing Half Dome from above - you're 1,000 feet higher than its summit. Tenaya Lake glitters 3,000 feet below. The entire Yosemite high country fans out to the north. What Most Underestimate: The exposure on the final ridge. If heights bother you, skip this trail. The ridge has no railings, no trees, and a brisk breeze can feel like a strong push. Also, the round trip is longer than most people think - 14 miles with 3,100 feet of gain is a full day. Best Time: July through September, once snow clears from the ridge. Start by 6 AM to avoid afternoon thunderstorms.Four Mile Trail (Glacier Point to Yosemite Valley)
Distance: 9.2 miles one way (it's actually 4.8 miles - the name is from the original trailhead location) Elevation Gain: 3,200 feet (if hiking up from the valley) Trailhead & Parking: Trailhead at the west end of Yosemite Valley, near the Swinging Bridge picnic area. Parking is limited to about 30 spots. Use the shuttle to reach this trailhead. If you're hiking down from Glacier Point, park at Glacier Point lot and arrange a shuttle back. The Trail: This is the steepest maintained trail in Yosemite Valley. From the valley floor, it's a continuous climb up switchbacks. No major breaks in grade until you reach Union Point at about 3 miles. The trail surface is packed dirt and granite, with several sections of step-like stone work from the original CCC construction. From Union Point to Glacier Point, the trail levels somewhat and offers continuous valley views. The Moment: About 2.5 miles up, you round a switchback and El Capitan suddenly fills your entire field of view - 3,000 vertical feet of granite directly across the valley. You're at eye level with climbers on the Nose route. What Most Underestimate: The climb is harder than the numbers suggest. 3,200 feet in 4.8 miles is a sustained 12.5% grade. Most people take 4-5 hours up, and the last mile is the steepest. Also, there's no water on the trail. Best Time: May through October. Morning is cooler, but afternoon light on the valley walls is better for photos.
Seasonal Trail Conditions
November through May: Most of Yosemite is snow-covered above 6,000 feet. The Yosemite Valley trails remain hikeable but expect mud, ice patches, and cold temperatures (30s to 50s). Upper elevation trails (Clouds Rest, Four Mile Trail above Union Point, anything on Tioga Road) are inaccessible except by ski or snowshoe. Tioga Road closes for the season, usually by November. June: The high country trails begin to clear. Tioga Road typically reopens in late May or early June, but expect snow on north-facing slopes and at trailheads above 9,000 feet. Water crossings are at peak flow. Yosemite Falls is thundering. This is the best month for waterfall hikes. July through September: The high country is fully accessible. Trail conditions are generally dry. Afternoon thunderstorms are common above 8,000 feet - plan to be off exposed ridges by 2 PM. Wildfire smoke can affect visibility and air quality in August and September. October: The best month for hiking trails in yosemite national park without crowds.** Daytime temperatures in the valley are 60-75°F. The high country sees overnight freezes and early season snow. Tioga Road may close as early as late October.Trailhead Logistics
Parking strategy for the specific trailheads covered above:- Happy Isles (Half Dome): Lot fills by 7 AM. Shuttle from Curry Village or Yosemite Village is your reliable option.
- Camp 4 (Upper Yosemite Falls): Fills by 8 AM. Yosemite Village overflow.
- Glacier Point Road trailheads (Sentinel Dome, Taft Point): Fill by 9 AM. Consider the Glacier Point hiker bus from the valley if you don't want to drive up.
- Tenaya Lake (Clouds Rest): Fills by 8:30 AM. Road shoulder parking is legal but careful about traffic.
- Four Mile Trailhead: Shuttle-accessible, but the lot at the trailhead is tiny.
What to Carry
The terrain here is different from most national parks. Hiking at yosemite national park means granite, elevation, and unpredictable afternoon weather. Your gear needs to account for all three.
Footwear: The standard advice - trail runners for summer, boots for shoulder seasons - applies, but with a caveat. Yosemite's granite trails are abrasive. The fine decomposed granite that covers many trails acts like sandpaper on shoe soles. A pair of trail runners with Vibram Megagrip or similar sticky rubber will handle the slabs better than stiff boots. If you're doing the Half Dome cables, a grippy approach shoe is better than a hiking boot - you want your foot to feel the granite. Water capacity: On any trail longer than 5 miles without a water source, carry 3 liters minimum in summer. The dry air and elevation combine to dehydrate you faster than you expect. Many of the best trails here - Upper Yosemite Falls, Four Mile Trail, Sentinel Dome - have no water at all. Sun protection: At 8,000 feet, UV exposure is 40% higher than at sea level. Wide-brimmed hat, sunglasses, long sleeves, and sunscreen. The granite reflects UV from below - you'll burn on exposed trails even if you think you're shaded. Layers: The temperature swing between valley floor (4,000 feet) and high country (8,000-10,000 feet) is 20-30°F. A lightweight puffy and a wind shell weigh almost nothing and can save a hypothermia situation if you get caught in an afternoon thunderstorm above tree line. Navigation: Paper map of the Yosemite Wilderness (USGS 7.5-minute quad or Tom Harrison map). Cell phone with downloaded offline maps as backup. The trails in Yosemite Valley itself are well-signed, but once you leave the valley floor, junction signs are less frequent.Practical Takeaways
- Apply for the best yosemite backpacking permits by late March for summer trips. The lottery opens in November and runs through October, but the most popular trailheads (Happy Isles, Cathedral Lakes, Glen Aulin) fill within days of the application window opening.
- If you don't get a reservation, don't give up. Walk-up permits (40% of total capacity) are available starting at 11 AM the day before your trip at the Yosemite Valley Wilderness Center. Show up early - people line up by 8 AM for popular trailheads.
- The Half Dome permit is a separate lottery. Even if you have a wilderness permit that crosses Half Dome, you need to apply for the Half Dome cables permit. The combined application process is done through recreation.gov.
- Start before 7 AM on any trail leaving Yosemite Valley. The parking fills, the trail fills, and the afternoon heat and thunderstorms become concerns. The people who complain about crowds on the Mist Trail started at 10 AM.
- Pack extra water for this stretch - you have no idea how much you'll actually need until you're 4 miles up a dry trail. Seriously. 3 liters minimum. Four if it's July.
- The John Muir Trail is your friend for avoiding Mist Trail crowds. The Mist Trail is the direct route up the canyon. The JMT is longer but less crowded, and the surface is gentler. On a July morning, the Mist Trail can carry 500+ day hikers between Vernal and Nevada Falls. The JMT carries maybe 100.
- Thunderstorms above 8,000 feet are dangerous and predictable. If cumulus clouds build by noon, be off exposed ridges by 1:30 PM. Lightning strikes the granite domes regularly. Clouds Rest, Half Dome, and Sentinel Dome are particularly exposed.
- The walk-up permit system works if you're flexible. Rangers at the Wilderness Center will tell you that Tuesday through Thursday are the easiest days to get walk-up permits. Friday is nearly impossible. Be prepared to take a less popular trailhead if your first choice is full.
- Rangers will tell you that most rescues happen on the Half Dome cables - not because the cables are dangerous, but because people run out of water, overestimate their fitness, or fail to account for the 4,800-foot elevation gain from Happy Isles. The round trip from the valley to Half Dome and back is 16 miles. It's not a half-day hike.
- The trails in yosemite valley are just the beginning. The park has 800 miles of trails. If you can't get permits for the popular routes, look at the less-known trailheads: White Wolf, Hetch Hetchy, Chiquito Pass. Rangers will point you toward those if you ask.
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